![]() ![]() There have been threads in the past discovering this. and the NCV3 Sprinter electronics get very upset when 'isolated' from the alternator. With that gadget, the batteries (and the Sprinter's electronics) cannot "see" the alternator. ![]() they don't have a relay, they depend upon semiconductors that only allow current flow in one direction (in TrippLite's drawing, from the alternator via separate paths to each battery). Ignore them.įootnote: yeah, there are "diode isolators". you'll see things like "diode isolators" out there. what model year? (it affects what and where the "D+" terminal looks like under the seat) In the first electrical van build episode, I showcase the 12v wiring with our 16 gauge marine grade wiring and for our 110v wire for the hot water heater. (all of those links includes the "helps Sprinter Forum with a few pennies" tag) Sprinter Van Electrical Wiring Diagram Please note our van’s electric diagram is still a work in progress but I want to give you some content as I am working on the van. If it is not high then the isolator is bad. If that signal is good, then temporarily disconnect the isolator output (that goes to your house battery) and measure the isolator output when the engine is running. I would add a fuse between the starter battery and the Stinger (MB does when they supply their Auxiliary Battery option). If that signal is not high when the engine is running then it's a fuse or wiring problem having to do with that signal. The BlueSea ACR simply wouldn't have the D+ connection, just the two battery wires. Here's how the Stinger would get wired in (the red wire already exists in your Sprinter): Those will not work in an NCV3 Sprinter (and aren't good in a T1N).((see footnote)) The 2nd question, of course, is "how many amps?"Īdded: Looking at the TrippLite manual, i see they suggest (as it happens) a diode isolator. ![]() alternator running, or shore-power charging). If "charges both ways", then something like the BlueSea ACR (automatic control relay) magically joins the batteries when either side gets to 13.5 volts (i.e. If "only", then something like a Stinger, with its coil powered by the "D+" signal you'll find under the driver's seat (comes live when the alternator is actually running). (isolator and separator can be considered synonyms, and it's (at heart) just a relay).((see footnote))Īfter adding the footnote, i should 'fess up and say that the Stinger is an "isolation relay".īy "control", i mean do you ONLY want it to join when the engine is running, or do you want it to also join when you've got shore power charging the house? You've got one initial decision to make: do you want to control the isolator, or do you want it to make its own (perhaps problematical) decisions about when to join the batteries? ![]()
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